Preparing for the Perm Service Performing the proper steps before a perm service is as important as the process itself. In this video, Zotos Professional Educator Angie Ceja will take you through all the necessary first steps to ensure a successful perm. It all starts with a consultation and analysis of the client’s scalp and hair, understanding their desired results and whether they can be achieved based on the hair’s properties. To evaluate, observe the P.E.T. qualities: Porosity, Elasticity, and Texture. · Porosity is most important of the three, as it determines the hair’s ability to absorb liquid: the higher the porosity, the more damaged the hair. · Elasticity is the ability of the hair to stretch. When you stretch one strand of hair, if that strand quickly breaks it means there has been a loss of integrity and hair may be too compromised to perm. · Lastly, consider the hair’s Texture—fine, medium, or coarse—to understand the range of perming resistance from least to most resistant. Once you’ve decided to move forward after analyzing the hair, check the scalp to confirm the absence of abrasions or cuts, and drape the client with a water-resistant cape to protect from chemicals. (Don’t forget to protect yourself with an apron and gloves.) Gently cleanse hair with a clarifying shampoo. This will remove oil, debris, and product build-up that could prevent absorption of the waving lotion—but do NOT use conditioner before perming. Finally, rinse thoroughly, apply a towel, and re-evaluate to make a final determination on whether hair is perm-able. (You’ll need to re-assess because once hair is completely clean, its porosity and elasticity may change.) Important: it is critical to completely read the perming instructions printed on the inside of the perm box before you begin wrapping hair to confirm the manufacturer’s recommended instructions have not been updated to include important steps like a pre-treatment or leave-in pre-wrap. Remember to always perform perms in a well-ventilated area. Now you’re prepped to perm like a pro!

The Importance of the Right Amount of Tension Used When Wrapping While performing a perm service, it’s important to pay attention to how tightly you wrap hair around the perm rods, as this can affect the results. First things first: always follow the manufacturer’s directions. The majority of perms require the use of minimal tension, but different solutions may require different tension levels. If the hair starts to lose dampness while wrapping, spray the section you are wrapping lightly with water to re-dampen it. It’s important to spray the hair section rather than spraying each end paper. • Spraying individual end papers is an unnecessary step that could prevent the perm solution from properly saturating the ends. • The purpose of end paper is to keep the ends smooth, rather than to protect the hair. Once you’ve wrapped the rods, you should still be able to gently rock them back and forth. If they won’t budge, it’s possible you’ve wrapped them too tightly. • When wrapping, pay special attention to the crown area, as we tend to pull this hair straight up and unconsciously use more tension. The reason you don’t want to wrap hair too tightly is that it needs room to expand, since some waving lotions swell the hair by opening the cuticle to enable absorption. If there’s no room for hair to expand because it’s been wrapped too tightly, breakage may occur. However, there are perm solutions that don’t expand hair to the same degree (such as those with newer technologies), and may require you to wrap with more tension—which is why you should always read the directions first.